What does Lawn Aeration cost on average? Average cost of Lawn Turf How much does Mulch cost per yard? What does Compost cost? How much does Zoysia Sod cost? What does a Concrete Block Wall cost?
Crushed Granite cost How much does Crushed Stone cost per yard? What the average Landscape Timber price? Landscaping Boulder cost How much does Landscaping Rock cost? What does Drip Irrigation Systems cost? Many of these miscellaneous tools you likely already own or have easy access to. If you hit it off, you can repay them by inviting them to your backyard party, or to roll in the grass with you….
Note: there were two healthy, young whippersnappers working on this project, which equates to approximately 25 horsepower… just kidding, but double the times below if you are performing this yard operation alone. Topsoil companies are the same way. You need to call them and place your order at least 48 hours in advance if you want to play it safe. Make sure your grading is appropriate. This is another reason to consider purchasing a little extra topsoil— to improve any slope you may need for runoff.
You want the roots to snug themselves into the soil, and not hit pockets of air, as they spread outward. Again, a lawn roller comes in hand here, but if you have some heavy boots, you can also just walk around squishing the grass into the soil.
Weed Control: To control crabgrass, goosegrass, sandspurs, and other summer annual weeds, apply a pre-emergent herbicide early in the year. A second application is needed approximately 8 to 10 weeks after the initial application to give season long control of annual warm-season weeds. Apply a post-emergent herbicide as needed to control existing winter weeds. In general, do not apply post-emergent herbicides to the lawn once the turf begins to green.
If a weed problem begins and the grass has begun to green with warmer temperatures, wait until the grass has fully greened-up before applying a post-emergent herbicide. In the meantime, mow and bag the weeds. Augustinegrass is sensitive to certain herbicides, such as 2,4-D, not only during spring green-up, but also during hot summer temperatures. Follow label directions for use of any herbicide and use with caution during these times. Insect Control: Cold winter temperatures will help usually keep insect problems at bay.
As temperatures start to warm in late spring, monitor for mole cricket and chinch bug activity. If either insect is observed, apply a lawn insecticide when damage becomes excessive. If the damage is minimal, monitor the activity and wait before applying an insecticide. This is not the best time to apply an insecticide because of the cool soil temperatures and reduced insect activity. However, an early spring warm-up can lead to both mole cricket and chinch bug activity. Heavy populations can be reduced with appropriately timed insecticide treatments during this period.
If grubs the white larvae of beetles, such as Japanese beetles have been a problem in previous years, monitor them by cutting a square foot piece of sod on three sides and peeling it back. If more than six grubs are found under the sod piece, apply a lawn insecticide labeled for grub control according to label directions.
Fertilization: Fertilization of St. Augustinegrass should be based on soil test results, and this is a good time to test soil.
However, fertilizers containing nitrogen should not be applied during this period. If new turfgrass growth is encouraged by fertilization during the early spring, and it is followed by a late frost, this can result in significant damage to the lawn. Irrigation: During dormancy, water the lawn to prevent excessive dehydration. Winter desiccation can be a problem during dry winters.
Watering to prevent drought stress can help eliminate turf loss during the winter. Most areas of South Carolina receive enough rainfall during the winter to avoid winter desiccation of lawns. However, this is not always the case. Monitor the winter rainfall on a regular basis, and apply water to the turf if no measurable rain occurs over a 3 to 4 week period. The added moisture in the soil will help keep the growing points of the turf warmer, preventing crown death.
To manage a lawn, it is important to know the soil texture in the top foot of soil. Sandy soils do not hold moisture well since they drain freely and dry out quicker. Clay soils, however, will hold moisture for a longer period of time. Be sure to not allow the lawn to stay excessively wet if the lawn has a clay soil.
If the soil stays saturated all winter, this can cause many other problems. A soil probe can be used to monitor soil moisture.
Mowing: The ideal mowing height for St. Lawns in shady areas perform better when mowed at 3 to 4 inches high. Always mow with a sharp blade using a mulching type mower, which leaves the clippings to decompose on the turf. The mower blade needs to be sharpened on a regular basis — usually about once a month or at least before the growing season starts.
If the bag is picking up soil, mainly sand, when the lawn is mowed, then the blade may need to be sharpened more often than once a month. Fertilization: Always fertilize and add lime or sulfur based on a soil test. Augustinegrass will grow best at a pH of 6 to 6. If a soil test indicates a higher soil pH, sulfur can be applied to lower it. Apply 5 lbs of pelletized sulfur per square feet of turf.
In 3 months, recheck the soil pH and see what change was made. It may take several years to make a large pH change. Soils in the upstate are typically acidic and rarely need sulfur applications but usually do need lime. Augustinegrass lawns should receive 2 to 4 pounds of actual nitrogen per growing season, per square feet of turf. The higher rate may be chosen for those growing St. Augustinegrass on sandy soils with the lower rate for those lawns growing on clay soils. An application of a soluble iron product, such as iron sulfate or a commercial chelated iron, in between fertilizer applications, will enhance the green color without encouraging growth.
Augustinegrass should be fertilized three times during the summer, as recommended below. However, in the piedmont and midlands of SC where the turf is growing on clay soils, St. Augustinegrass is typically fertilized only twice during the growing season early May and early July. The rate will depend on soil type. A soil test will help determine if a fertilizer containing phosphorous is required. See the section on fertilizer calculations below to determine how much granular fertilizer should be applied.
This fertilizer may be especially important if the soils are sandy. The addition of phosphorous, the middle number in the fertilizer analysis, should only be applied if recommended by a soil test. The addition of phosphorous, the middle number in the fertilizer analysis, will need to be determined by a soil test. Potassium is needed late in the growing season as the grass goes into dormancy for added disease protection and winter hardiness.
A long-term approach is needed to correct either cause, but an iron product can be added to quickly enhance turf color between the spring and summer fertilizer applications.
NOTE: A yellow appearance may also develop during early spring. This could indicate an iron or manganese deficiency due to soil temperatures lagging behind air temperatures, high pH soils, or high phosphorous levels. Spraying with liquid iron ferrous sulfate at 2 ounces in 3 to 5 gallons of water per 1, square feet or applying a chelated iron product will help to enhance turf color. Fertilizing with a micronutrient fertilizer, such as manganese sulfate, can alleviate manganese deficiencies.
However, as the soil temperatures start to climb, the yellowing should slowly go away. Lime or sulfur may also be added if a soil test indicates a need.
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