The additional solder acts as a heat bridge to the tiny amount of solder that was hard to reach…so it is all absorbed at one time. We go through the same steps, but put the wick up against one side of the lead, place the solder tip over the wick and the solder will pull from all the way around the lead. This can be a good time to add more solder to the joint if not all of the solder is wicked up. Step one: Choose the widest wick available. Step two: Choose a tip with a broad surface area.
A knife tip works well for this, but you can also use any tip with a broad surface area. Step three: Lay the braid all the way across the solder to be removed. Step Four: place the tip on one end of the braid.
Move the tip slowly along the braid to melt and wick solder as you move. For more information, please go to Chemtronics. Be the first to receive email alerts on special offers, new products, and more delivered right to your in-box.
Check often for exclusive offers, contests, product alerts and more. All rights reserved. Privacy Statement Accessibility. Soder-Wick User's Guide. Getting Started Steps to using sodering wick: Step one: Choose the appropriate size of wick and soldering tip for the solder to be removed. For the fastest desoldering choose a rosin based flux. For desoldering that does not require cleaning afterwards, choose a braid with No-clean flux.
If you have a requirement that you use a particular flux, or that you use an organic flux…choose unfluxed wick. You will need to add your own flux as you desolder in order. Unfluxed wick has a part number that starts with in the Soder-Wick line. All of the Soder-Wick 5 and 10 foot lengths are wound onto static dissipative bobbins to eliminate any danger of a static charge being generated or transferred from you to the circuit board.
After you desolder a component it is difficult to get all the old solder off and flatten the pad surface necessary especially for SMD components. Here is how you do it. Hold the board steady in a vice, hold the wedge just behind the soldering iron on the copper pad. When the solder melts, sweep the stick towards the iron. You'll be surprised how clean the pad looks! If you don't succeed the first time, apply some solder and try again. For ICs - one pin at a time.
Also remember when desoldering by any of the methods, always apply additional solder first. The flux in the new solder helps the old solder flow better. By the way, if you are having trouble finding bamboo sticks in your area, check out Chinese stores or restaurants. Does anyone know about Chipquick? It is a low-temperature solder. You apply it to the joint, and the melting point of the solder in the joint is lowered so much it stays molten "forever".
This is handy for elaborate repairs on dense surface-mount boards. On a large IC with lots of leads, you apply this to all the leads with an iron, then gentle heat-gun heat releases the IC. Then you clean up with a solder sucker or braid, and solder in the new IC. I'd like to add a few friendly additions to your techniques from one that is a practicing electronics engineer for a long time Usually makes for a cleaner extraction. You might want to reference the NASA publication that describes in detail proper soldering and desoldering techniques.
The pub number escapes me ATM, but it has been standard reading for both EEs and techs doing bench work. Put some solder in the hole and use the solder sucker.
You will get a nice clean hole. You don't mention it, but heating the component lead which usually has more mass is preferred first, then move to the PCB trace. That will reduce the risk of extracting the plated through hole PTH when you remove the component. That is, of course assuming you want to reuse the board. Just an observation, the heat gun approach is very good for removing components en mass but IF one wants to preserve the board, gradual heating is recommended as compared to your pic where the board was incinerated Wow, thanks for all the info!
I'll definitely add some of this in to make the guide a bit better and more comprehensive. I've used a small butane torch on the back side of a board to remove multi lead components. I put the board in a vise vertically and pull on the component with a pliers while playing the butane flame over the joints.
By moving the flame across all the joints repeatedly they're heated uniformly and the component usually releases before it's overheated. Introduction: The Ultimate Guide to Desoldering. By printeraction Printeraction Follow.
More by the author:. About: My name is Alex Crease, and I'm an engineer, a musician, and an adventurer. I love building things and taking others apart to see how they work, because every creation is an adventure! More About printeraction ». Here's what you can do: 1. Heat up the solder with the iron.
Slide the iron up the pins to bring the majority of the solder away from the joint. Pros: You need nothing but a soldering iron, and the components can be reused. Here's how to use it: 1. Unwind a few inches of braid from the coil. Place the braid over the joint you want to rework. Place a hot soldering iron against the braid and desired pin. Wait a few seconds. The solder will flow off the pin and onto the braid.
Remove the component. Repeat steps to remove excess solder. Here are the basic steps for using a hand-powered desoldering pump: 1. Press down on the plunger If your pump has a bulb, just squeeze the bulb.
Remove free component. Repeat steps to remove any excess solder. Dispose of the solder inside the pump by repeatedly pressing down and releasing the plunger.
If you don't have one of those though, here's how you can use a heat gun to desolder components: 1. Turn on the heat gun. Use pliers to hold the circuit board above the air streaTim. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the component out of the board. Heat up the solder with a soldering iron. Blast it with air, with the nozzle pointing away from you. Tip: Because the air can is pretty powerful, you can heat up solder stuck in pin holes and blast it out Pros: It's fun, messy, quick, and who doesn't love playing with compressed air?
Stack Overflow for Teams — Collaborate and share knowledge with a private group. Create a free Team What is Teams? Learn more. Why does solder wick absorb solder? Ask Question. Asked 2 years, 3 months ago. Active 2 years, 3 months ago. Viewed times. Improve this question. Rotos S. Rotos 8 8 silver badges 22 22 bronze badges. It's not just copper braid. I understand that fluxes are basically reducing agents that help to prevent the copper from oxidating. Why doesn't a simple copper braid without flux work?
The physics of how that happens, I'm not exactly sure so I'm not writing a full answer. I don't think the wick would work as well without the flux.
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